Oil furnace starts then stops

The gas fires for a few seconds and then shuts off and restarts the cycle again. Usually it works the second time. Sometimes it locks out and has to be reset. I checked the vacuum switch -ok. So my furnace starts and I can still here that its ignited when the blower starts. When the blower stops the furnace is still on the it repeats this process till I turn the thermostat off and it works fine what its wrong?

Model TC I can not halfling samurai 5e the hold temp of 57 on the thermostat, don't know if this has something to do with it. I can not find my manual The thermostat is digital, older model, with flush arrow keys I am remodeling this home and at night I shut the heat off to save energy. When start in the morn. I turn it on and set the theromstat at 65 deg. And it will start up and run but before it reaches what ever temperature I set it at, it will shut the burner Hello I have a Gaffers-Sattler furnace, about 40 years old.

Runs great, but for one problem. In the morning around 5 or 6, I turn on furnace and it will heat up and run for about 5 to 6 minutes then stop for about 3 minutes and repeat this all morning long. Remember Me? Find questions to answer Find today's questions Find unanswered questions. Search Topics. Login Not a member? Join our community.

oil furnace starts then stops

Mar 5,AM. Furnace Starts, Stops, then Starts again. I have a furnace that I can hear the following steps: 1. This is the sequence, and the amounts of time it actually burns and stops varies.

Sometimes it works perfectly. What could be the problem? Thanks, Dan. Mar 5,PM. Clean the flame sensor. Originally Posted by hvac Exact brand of unit? Exact model number of unit? It's a Comfortmaker. What is the proper way to clean?

Emory cloth? Soap and water? Thanks for your quick response.Forgot your Password? We welcome your comments and suggestions. All information is provided "AS IS. All rights reserved. You may freely link to this site, and use it for non-commercial use subject to our terms of use.

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New Posts. Today's Posts. Community Member List. Forum Actions Mark Forums Read. Quick Links View Forum Leaders. Thread Tools. I am having an intermittent problem with my oil boiler that began about a week ago and I'm having trouble pinning it down.

I've found a lot of helpful information on this forum so I'm hoping someone can help me figure it out before I start throwing parts at it. Several minutes into cycle, the intermittent primary begins to click every now and then, but burner will continue to fire. Then suddenly flame and motor stop at what sounds like the same time.

Very shortly thereafter usually seconds, but sometimes longer the primary makes a loud click and flame will reignite, run for a second or two, and then quit again. It then restarts automatically, runs, quits after a few seconds, and repeats that pattern rapidly three or four times, but eventually will start running normally again with normal color flame. This can happen 20 times in a firing cycle, or not at all. While I haven't lost heat yet, and the boiler always starts on a call for heat without ever having to hit the reset button, the cycling noise is awful and it seems like just a matter of time before what ever is causing this problem causes a complete failure and no heat.

It also seems to happening more and more frequently.

Reasons Why Your Furnace Runs Only For a Few Minutes

I have a Becket AFG burner, Honeywell rD intermittent ignition primary with 45 second lockout, suntec A2VA pump, and the older, non-electronic type of transformer. There are two zones: one is heat and the other is indirect domestic hot water.

The boiler was cleaned in October and the filters were all changed at that point. I haven't had any issues until about a week ago. I had an oil delivery the day before the problem started but I don't think that is related. So far I have performed the following checks: Lifted off the transformer and checked that area underneath was clean of soot and debris.On the whole, oil furnaces are considered to be among the most durable household appliances.

Even though many manufacturers claim that their units have only a year usable life, a homeowner can often expect 15 to 20 years of service from a properly maintained furnace.

However, this is not to imply that an oil burner won't develop a few ailments now and then, typically on the coldest night of the winter.

In some instances, only a minor repair or adjustment will be required, but in many cases, you'll need the services of a qualified heating professional to restore the furnace to good health. Even so, if you're familiar with the common problems that oil burners develop and their recommended repairs, you'll be better able to judge the quality of a repairperson's work and ward off the incompetent or unscrupulous.

In the discussion that follows, former EcoVillage Director Leroy Richter, who teaches a popular introductory course on furnace repair at a local technical institute, lists some common oil furnace problems and some ways to correctly diagnose the trouble.

It's located either on the primary control at the stack on older models or on the burner motor on newer appliances.

Push the button once or twice; however, if the furnace doesn't come on and stay on within 60 seconds, stop pushing the button and check the fuses or circuit breaker. Don't keep pushing the reset button, which merely loads more fuel into the combustion chamber.

If you do and the furnace finally does fire, you'll have a "heck of a lot of oil" in there, Richter points out.

If this is the case, the motor will have to be replaced. Over-oiling the motor, which is sealed, is probably the most common cause of failure. Another possibility, though a rare one, is a faulty starting switch on the motor, which is an inexpensive repair. In this case, turn your attention first to the burner nozzle. To check for water, disconnect the oil supply line from the burner assembly and catch the fuel in a clean jar.

Hold it to the light and look for the presence of water.

Why Does My Furnace Blower Turn On and Off Constantly?

A homeowner can minimize fuel contamination by following these suggestions:. Another possible cause is a shorted-out transformer. To check, Leroy advises, disconnect the wires to the burner motor and the furnace, leaving the transformer wire in place. Take a screwdriver with an insulated handle and since you're dealing with 10, volts, a good wallop, be sure to hold onto the insulated handleand touch it to one of the terminals of the transformer while slowly lowering the shaft of the screwdriver into contact with the other terminal.

Finally, dirty or cracked electrodes and shorted-out electrode wires can keep a furnace from firing. If the burner is running and there's fire in the furnace, but the heat being produced is insufficient, check the air filter first; if it's clogged, change it. Oddly enough, a new air filter becomes most efficient after it has collected a small coating of lint; however, an excessive buildup will impede airflow. If the air filter in your furnace needs changing more than once or twice a year, make sure that a clothes dryer, which emits lots of airborne lint, isn't too close to the furnace.

If an air filter change doesn't solve the problem, then open the inspection door to the supply-air fan and see whether the fan belt is broken and needs to be replaced. If the fan belt is in good shape, then inspect the supply-air fan itself, which could be burned out.

The furnace was just pumping heat into the crawl space. Occasionally, insufficient airflow can be traced to an improperly sized return-air duct. One clue to improperly sized ductwork is a strong suction in the supply-air fan compartment. Dirty air can be caused by a number of things.

Possibilities include a clogged chimney or flue pipe a good spot to check is where the flue pipe connects to the chimney ; insufficient draft because of a too-long flue pipe a rare occurrence ; and a clogged or cracked heat exchanger this is a serious proposition, usually requiring the purchase of a new furnace.

While you're at it, look at the gaskets around the inspection door to the combustion chamber. This smoke can then be sucked into the supply-air fan and blown into the house. A few unscrupulous furnace repair people may diagnose this problem as a cracked heat exchanger and try to sell a homeowner a new furnace rather than merely replacing the gaskets.

Furthermore, there are two internal gaskets for the inspection plates on the heat exchanger that may become warped through use and may allow smoke to escape.

Furnace Keeps Turning On and Off Repeatedly? The Guide to Troubleshooting a Short-Cycling Furnace.

These will need to be checked and replaced by a heating professional. If you have an older unit, consider adding a humidifier.Remember Me?

Results 1 to 8 of 8. Thread Tools Show Printable Version. I have a model oil burning furnace with a honeywell thermostat Don't know what brand the Furnace is, though.

When I start it, it will run for about 1 minute and then cuts off. It has a 45 second delay before it will attempt to restart once I hit the reset button. It does the same thing all over again. I had a new oil burner put on it a year ago. It acts like it is getting fuel but it just keeps stopping after a minute. Any ideas what might be causing this problem? It is the starter, a sensor, both, or something else? Any help is appreciated.

Join Date Feb Location S. Call a service company, and TELL the tech how many times you pushed the reset button. You now have a BIG fire potential. And it was a waste putting a new oil burner in a furnace, or boiler. Contractor locator map How-to-apply-for-Professional How many times must one fix something before it is fixed?

The ho said he only pushed the reset two times. New nozzel and filter later boom blew the brick refactiorie apart and the flue right off it burned for at least a half hour. I learned my lesson also! Now when I approach a dead Oil burner, I pull the burner out and inspect the fire box with a light and mirror, stick a telescopic clip with a cotton ball and dab around.

It also allows me a great opportunity to check the fire retention ring,air tube and nozzle and electrode settings. I have a one hour minimum on fuel oil, plus a trip charge.

I have not blown one up for many years now. Also on lighting off a dead oil burners, I loosen the air collar for instant adjustments. I would repair a old burner And people for some reason are more scared of gas. Use the biggest hammer you like, pounding a square peg into a round hole does not equal a proper fit.

Take it from someone who knows first hand; third degree burns from a flame blowing out 10 feet from an oil furnace is a very painful experience.Possible cures: Get some fuel. Check for a blown fuse or open circuit breaker, or if a switch has been left off, said Markarian. Check for broken wire s ; trace path of electricity, stated Sweigart. Turn the thermostat well above room temperature.

There could be a plugged nozzle, filter, or oil line, he said, or a valve could be left off. There may be a cracked porcelain. Possible cures: Get fuel; check for plugged nozzle, filter, or oil line, Markarian said. Open valve. Replace cracked porcelains. Adjust electrodes. Adjust air, then perform a combustion analysis. Test oil pump. Replace stripped pump coupling. Other possibilities, according to Sweigart, are not enough air, plugged chimney or heat exchanger, over fire, or wrong nozzle.

Adjust air and perform a combustion analysis, Sweigart stated. Check chimney condition and heat exchanger condition. Sweigart listed the following: heat anticipator set incorrectly; limit setting incorrect; inadequate duct system; blower speed set too high; or house doors and windows open. Possible cures: Set firing rate within specifications, Markarian said.

Check thermostat. Survey the duct system and make any necessary changes. Close doors and windows. Possible cures: If replacing, perform a load calculation to determine the correct size and install a properly sized unit. Make adjustments using instruments, said Markarian. Have the furnace cleaned annually, stated Sweigart.

Install the correct nozzle. Check and adjust oil pump pressure. Seal duct leaks. Insulate ductwork. Recommend that the homeowner invest in energy conservation items.

Instruct occupants to keep doors and windows closed. There may be a partially plugged nozzle, the burner may need adjustment, or the furnace may not have the proper end cone. This could also be caused by a cracked heat exchanger. Possible cures: Clean or replace the nozzle, adjust the burner, or replace the end cone, Markarian said.Here are the instructions how to enable JavaScript in your web browser.

oil furnace starts then stops

Read the full update. Is your furnace creating problems preventing you from enjoying a pleasant, warm, and cozy environment? If your furnace only runs for a few minutes then shuts off, your home will hardly be a comfortable place. There can be various reasons for this inefficient performance, and here we list a few likely causes or related parts which are responsible for a furnace that shuts off after a few minutes.

If your furnace only runs for a few minutes then flips off automatically, the flame sensor might be faulty. The flame sensor is responsible for monitoring the gas burner. If the furnace starts then shuts off instantly it may be because the flame sensor is not able to identify the flame and the control board will shut off voltage to the gas valve interrupting the heat cycle.

The problem can be solved by merely cleaning the flame sensor, but if the issue persists, you may have to get the flame sensor replaced.

You can use a soft abrasive pad to clean the flame sensor. Your flame rollout switch might be defective if your furnace only runs for a few minutes. The role of the flame rollout switch is to monitor the heat surrounding the burners. If the burners are not being drawn into the heat exchanger and the exhaust expels the flue accurately then the rollout switch will open This prevents the furnace from heating and likely stalling it off after some time.

Insufficient available air surrounding the furnace usually results in poor air flow through the burner. Another probable reason that why your furnace only runs for a few minutes and then shuts off is a defective switch.

OIl Burner Stops and Restarts Rapidly & Repeatedly, Never Locks Out

The draft inducer motor air flow through the burner should close a pressure switch to indicate the board that accurate air flow is present and the ignition process can continue. The defective pressure switch can cause the ignition process to pause. Your furnace running for only a few minutes, then shutting off may be because your control board is faulty.

If the board stops working it can cause the unit to run for a short time and then go off. If your furnace only works for a few minutes then turns off, the draft inducer motor might be defective. The inducer motor air flow thorough the burner also causes the pressure switch to close, indicating the board that right air flow is present. If the inducer motor is defective, it will be unable to close the pressure switch which causes the ignition process to stop. Air flow problems also causes your furnace to run for a few minutes then shut off.

Proper air flow through the burner is important in order for the burner to remain on and not trip a limit thermostat. The burner draws air from either the outside the home or from the surrounding area. If the furnace is installed in cramped storage room or a utility closet, there may not be sufficient air for the furnace to work properly.

In case your furnace draws air from outside the home, ensure their is nothing including ice build up blocking the air inlet. Is your furnace acting a little temperamental? Give us a shout today and get help from one of our certified furnace experts!

oil furnace starts then stops

A damaged heat exchanger in a gas furnace is not an issue that should be ignored. Leaking and broken heat exchangers expose homeowners to toxic gases, which can be very dangerous to you and your family. It can be hard to know if your hea This is a nice question, but how long is a furnace suppo Phone Number. How Should We Contact You? Phone Email. Submit Message. Flame Sensor If your furnace only runs for a few minutes then flips off automatically, the flame sensor might be faulty.

Flame Rollout Switch Your flame rollout switch might be defective if your furnace only runs for a few minutes.Those of you who have read our articles, know that we are a small, U. Veteran-Owned heating and air conditioning company in California, and pride ourselves on giving straight, honest answers; we are straight-shooters, and this will be no different. After a few seconds or minutes, the furnace then clicks on again, and the cycle repeats itself. Now, you have to realize that a furnace turning on and off frequently, in itself, is a subjective matter.

Contrary to what you might think, however, the frequency with which your furnace turns on and off is not so much what we are concerned with.

We are more concerned with what is causing it to turn on and off so frequently. Whereas, a properly functioning furnace will run for several minutes per cycle. So, before you spend a bloody fortune calling up a furnace repairman like me, in the middle of winter, you need to do two things: first, see how long your furnace runs for before automatically turning off, and second, go through the troubleshooting steps below.

Please keep in mind, that this article is about a furnace that keeps turning on and off repeatedly. Below, we will troubleshoot the various causes for a furnace that keeps turning on and off every few seconds. In short, the blower motor the fan that moves air around your house pushes air over your heat exchanger, which is really just a bunch of tubes that have burning fuel passing through them making them hot, therefore heating your house.

Now, many of you must be thinking after reading about all of these safety features, that your furnace keeps turning on and off because one of these has failed. This, however, is not true.

The reason I told you about these features was to show you that your furnace is built to be inherently safe. Next, we will discuss the most likely culprit for a furnace turning on and off repeatedly — the High Limit Switch. Just give me the answer. After all, I used to be a Navy flight instructor…so trust me, knowing the basics of how this thing works will help you a lot when we start troubleshooting — I digress.

A high-limit switch is a switch that turns your furnace off if it gets too hot, and it is the most likely cause of your furnace turning on and off repeatedly. A Flue Limit Switch is a switch that turns your furnace off if air is not properly ventilating out of the exhaust flue. Why would this be a problem? A couple reasons: first, it means that hot, newly combusted gasses are building up inside of your furnace, hindering its performance, and possibly introducing a dangerous situation; second, heat will continue to build up in the furnace, tripping the high limit switch.

Again, redundancy is the key to safety, so this is another feature to help aid the High Limit Switch in keeping you and your family safe. If this is obstructed, it will also turn your furnace off — more on that later. In this section, we will go through our troubleshooting process step-by-step, addressing when a furnace keeps turning on and off frequently. The order we go in is important, as this will be written in order from the most likely causes, to the least likely causes of a furnace repeatedly cycling on and off.

Imagine, for a moment, that your furnace heat exchangers — the actual coils that heat up the air for your house — are caked in years of dust and debris from your home.

Aside from creating a disgusting smell in your house, it can actually be a source of combustion. If you remember from our orientation up above, the most common cause for your furnace to keep turning on and off is the High-Limit Switch, which turns the unit off if the temperature inside gets too high as a safety precaution. So, in essence, the most common causation for when a furnace keeps turning on and off, is a clogged air filter.


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